Once again Sarah and I travelled to stay with our good friend, or should I be saying bueno amigo!, Neil Renwick in Extremadura, Spain. This time we were accompanied by my Dad, I knew we were going to see so much out there he wouldn't believe it, and with the prospect of a day in a hide for vultures I was keen more than ever to get back over there.
So here we go.
As we arrived at Madrid airport early evening, our very first and new addition was Monk Parakeet, not bad after just arriving.
DAY 1(first full day) - 9th April.
Our first day was to be a gentle start with a walk with Kelly, Neil's dog, from Neil's home town. But first breakfast in the garden and bird at our leisure. Before even setting off out the front door I was ticking off Serin, Crested Lark, Black Kite and Sardinian Warbler to name just a few. The weather was forecast as a mixed bag throughout our week in Spain but for now the forecast was nice and sunny with decent temperatures, so decent in fact that it turned out hotter than they predicted and the 3 of us got sunburnt! But not Neil, he was used to the sun so too was Kelly. As soon as we were out of the town we were adding species after species to the birding list and already some new birds my Dad had never seen, for instance Fan tailed warbler and Booted eagle.
Booted Eagle
Corn Bunting
A song that was to become very familiar everywhere we ventured came from the Corn Bunting, they were so numerous all over Extremadura.
A song that was to become very familiar everywhere we ventured came from the Corn Bunting, they were so numerous all over Extremadura.
Booted Eagle
At first we seemed to just encounter pale morph Booted eagles but the darker variants soon started to show. One of my favourite bird species are Shrikes, and contrary to previous visits this time it was the Woodchat Shrike that was most numerous and not Iberian Grey Shrike, probably due to the Iberians being resident and already nesting. The Woodchat was to become one of the most numerous birds, not far behind Corn Bunting it seemed, every few hundred yards along the roads seemed to have one of us calling Woodchat again!
At first we seemed to just encounter pale morph Booted eagles but the darker variants soon started to show. One of my favourite bird species are Shrikes, and contrary to previous visits this time it was the Woodchat Shrike that was most numerous and not Iberian Grey Shrike, probably due to the Iberians being resident and already nesting. The Woodchat was to become one of the most numerous birds, not far behind Corn Bunting it seemed, every few hundred yards along the roads seemed to have one of us calling Woodchat again!
Woodchat Shrike
Woodchat Shrike
White Stork
The White Storks are lovely to see, and nesting on any available platform whether remote or in a built up area, they are a sight you expect to see all over.
The White Storks are lovely to see, and nesting on any available platform whether remote or in a built up area, they are a sight you expect to see all over.
Typical dehesa habitat, from this track we stopped to watch a local nesting colony of Lesser Kestrels, whilst we also picked out a "bubbling" female Cuckoo sat up in a eucalyptus tree which turned out to be of the colourful rufous morph. The return route produced an abundance of birds numbering 44 species. We left Kelly to rest at home and then set off in the car slowly heading towards Trujillo.
Spanish Sparrows
We stopped at some scrubland not far from Neil's to look for Nightingale, as soon as we got out of the car we had one calling and in usual Nightingale fashion it took a while before we actually caught a glimpse of it. It was accompanied vocally by a Cetti's warbler, time to move on. The next stop was unexpected, this time to watch a group of around a 1000 Spanish Sparrows that were swarming around a field with a large haystack and livestock in. This was a stunning sight to see, absolutely mesmerising. A female Kestrel took advantage of this huge mass and was able to pick out a male Spanish Sparrow for its supper. As we headed away from our Sparrow fix we picked up Black winged Stilt feeding on a small pond.
Spanish Sparrows
Spanish Sparrows
Moving out across the Steppes we started to pick out Great Bustards, and one group was keeping company with large group of Pin tailed Sandgrouse.....result!
Pin tailed Sandgrouse
We viewed the sandgrouse flying around before once again settling down around the Great Bustards. The bustards also put on a show with a few of the males strutting and "foam bathing" (full displaying)
Pin tailed Sandgrouse
Great Bustard
With the sun getting lower we finally arrived at Trujillo to find somewhere for dinner, not before watching the Lesser Kestrels, Pallid/Common Swifts around the town centre.
What a fantastic first day, 59 species seen, it was so good to be back. And returning back to Neil's after dinner, I knew the day was not yet finished even though it was nightime!
A late night walk with Kelly produced at least 3 Scops Owls calling around the village and 3 Barn Owls seen flying over the roof tops, illuminated by the street lamps, and the nightly chorus of frogs and Natterjack Toads.
Great Bustard
DAY 2 - 10th April.
DAY 2 - 10th April.
After breakfast and garden birding was finished ( Black winged Stilt seen from garden!) it was time for our walk with Kelly before we headed off out. The usual suspects were still showing and calling but we managed to find a few Little ringed Plover in a small livestock compound which I didn't expect to see there. Once back home and with gear ready we headed to Alcollarin reservoir. On the approach road we stopped to watch some Lesser Kestrels on the church, Kingfisher and Black redstart were both seen but I didn't connect at that time.
A halt in the route to inspect a bird flitting around next to the road turned up a lovely Tree Pipit which duly posed next to my window for a couple of shots.
And then overhead a Short toed Eagle slowly passed by, this was to be a fantastic bird filled place.
On previous trips the Bee-eaters had only shown flying overhead or perched a bit too far for the camera, on this occasion however we were treated to a few birds perching on a wire fence close by as they flew low over the bushes feeding. This was a highlight, being able to view these stunning birds close up was lovely and we didn't budge from the spot until they had departed for good.
Storks as per norm were nesting everywhere, right next to a picnic area too. Around the shoreline we picked out a few waders, Common and Green Sandpiper, Ringed Plover and Stilts. A scan through the wildfowl turned up a pair of Red Crested Pochard, Egyptian geese, and Shelduck. I heard a Kingfisher calling but neither Neil or I could locate it. The group of Egrets, including Great White, close by took to the air and the culprits turned out to be a Marsh Harrier along with a circling Golden Eagle just above it.
As is seen in Spain the flocks of sheep are watched and followed at all times by the local sheep dogs, it's lovely to watch these gentle giants governing the flocks keeping them safe and controlled as they move around the grassland. Also following these flocks were the Cattle Egrets along with a handful of Yellow Wagtails (Iberian race), they could be picked out every now and again around the sheeps feet.
From the reservoir we moved towards the paddyfields with the hope of some new species. Some of the male Stonechats had such a deep colour to their breasts, by now the rain had started to increase and the photography options were put on hold until something good turned up and it was worth getting wet!
I had to grab a record shot of a Whimbrel though, this was one of 2 seen feeding whilst behind them in a further field a flock of Collared Pratincoles busily moved back and forth.
The fields looked drained ready for planting perhaps? but then alongside a ditch I noticed a small wader and cried joyfully "Kentish", this was to be a welcomed bird for me and indeed for everyone, this was a first for me and one I had been wanting to see for years. I was so pleased and then to add to this we found a couple of juvenile birds keeping close to the adult bird, how early had they bred? The adult was a male bird, female lacks the head colouring, and Neil said that the parents normally split to look after the young seperately, what a great moment.
Some of the drainage channels were concrete runs, it was along these that we had great views of Yellow Wagtails, of the Iberiae form. A couple of the males were so bright in colour..awesome.
With the rain continuing we viewed a large ditch that had been totally burnt of vegetation on one side of a bridge, but thankfully amongst the reeds we happily located a flock of Avadavat's and a bonus few Tree Sparrows. Time for a coffee break and cake whilst the rain continued, luckily it looked like it would start to break so after a welcome drink we moved from the productive paddies to the hopefully drier steppes.
As hoped for, the weather did brighten up, enabling us to connect with more Great Bustards and Little Bustards. A spectacle happened whilst scanning the steppes, we watched a movement of hundreds of Sand Martins low over the fields pass by, wave after wave....were they aware of some bad weather moving in or birds still migrating?
Journeying home, silhouetted by the fading light, we saw the unmistakeable figure of a Eagle Owl perched up on a pylon, what a superb day.
DAY 3 - 11th April.
"HIDE DAY"
This was the day I had been looking forward to the most. Neil had booked up a day in a hide that attracted Vultures and raptors, this was going to be an experience like nothing before. The day started early and we had to be there to meet the owners before the birds started to arrive at the hide. The weather however was not a good forecast and as we waited for the owners to arrive the rain started and the skies darkened. But we were so eager to get set up, we all hoped the weather would at least break and improve for us.
I had to manually adjust the camera settings as the light was so dark, enabling me to grab some record images of the early arrivals. Blessed by slightly better light conditions I could worry less on adjusting the camera settings, what was to show before our very eyes was an absolute spectacle and a thoroughly enjoyable day. I had been given access to the new hide joining the existing hide which Sarah, Neil and my Dad. On their hide they had a window ledge and unbeknown to me the Vultures were actually perching on the ledge peering into the hide where they were!! they had to peer around the birds to see what was going on! I had a thoroughly enjoyable, fantastic day and clicked off 2700 images, I couldn't get enough of them.
The Ravens were funny trying to get at the bait laid out, they would aggravate the vultures by pulling at their tail feathers to get them to move.
The Black Kite's were just beautiful, such a lovely looking bird. I tended to concentrate a lot on these alongside the strangely attention grabbing Egyptian Vultures.
The way the vultures ran around in a "lolliping fashion" had Sarah laughing every time.
What a sight seeing so many vultures descending right in front of us.
Thankfully I pulled myself away from the camera and my attention was immediately drawn to something different sat up in a nearby tree...a young Spanish Imperial Eagle. I knew one had visited a few days before but it was another thing to have one sat up right in front of you. What a stunner!
It was wary of the vultures around it and kept a safe distance from them, it then moved to a tree further away and disappeared not to return, Neil came in after and asked if I had seen the eagle and thankfully I was able to say I had, grabbing photos of this bird was a real bonus.
When the feeding was under way it was a scrum to say the least, with birds standing on one another just to try and get a way in.
Once the frenzy had quietened down I could pick out individuals to photograph.
The yellow flowers set off the scene for some nice photos.
Strange, maybe ugly to some but they were great to watch and definitely photogenic.
Sunning itself before departing. Some were so full they couldn't move, just fall asleep on the spot!
As the numbers thinned out, the Egyptians put on an aerial show, completing circuit after circuit, giving me the chance for some flight shots.
A couple of Red Kites put in an appearance including one very pale bird.
DAY 4 - 12th April.
Today we headed out onto the steppes for a mixed bag, hopefully consisting of Bustards, Montagu's Harriers, Roller and Sandgrouse. The weather was a mixed bag with some heavy clouds and rain dotted around, with a bit of luck we would dodge most of it.
We stopped outside Neil's village searching for Sawfly Orchids, this is the spot where we had had a Knapweed Fritillary butterfly the year before.
At our first major stop we could hear Pin tailed Sandgrouse calling distantly but were unable to locate them, we saw Montagu's Harriers, Meadow Pipit, Quail calling and connected with one of our target birds, Short toed Lark. There were a couple feeding in a ploughed field adjacent to us, although distant we had scope views of them moving in and out of the troughs.
There were quite a few Montagu's flying around and some perching on the fence posts, this male above had been sat in a roadside field and got up as we passed. We stopped a little further up the road and Neil prepared the much loved coffee and snack whilst we scanned around. With Montagu's passing all around we then got onto a few Little Bustards flying nearby, thankfully we seemed to be missing the heavy rains passing close by, we now headed onto where the Roller colony nests to hopefully connect.
We did indeed connect with Rollers, perched on the wires they unfortunately were in a position where I was looking into the sun hence I did not get any shots, but we did manage to view them well enough and were treated to a couple of seconds of plumage brilliance as one landed on the ground only to take off straight away. We headed to a known area where we could look for Short toed Larks among other resident larks, and sure enough as we approached a newly set up hide overlooking the steppes, we watched a few Short toed Larks moving along the roadside close by.
Nice to see the same tree still there after the previous 2 visits....just one more photo!
A huge expanse of rain could be seen moving closer, but luckily we seemed to out of its path.
I tried for some more images of the Shot toed Larks as they fed among the flower clad grass. the rufous tinged crown really standing out on some birds.
We all watched this tiny Fan tailed Warbler busily collecting sheeps hair caught on barbed wire, it continually pulled and tugged at it until it finally gave itself up and it flew away with a full bill.
The Calandra Lark's were very vocal and very numerous here, in fact we then witnessed another spectacle, one that Neil had come across at this time of year. There was a huge flock of Calandra's all flying and landing as a group just as if we were watching a wader flock by the coast! Indeed Neil had witnessed large amounts together before but during the winter, not at this time of year? probably they were still moving onto breeding grounds further on hence why still grouping together in such large numbers/ perhaps grounded by the weather, whatever the reason it was a lovely sight to see so many sweeping back and forth.
Once "full" from our Calandra Lark spectacle we slowly drove away to where we had hoped to find what we thought was a Marsh Harrier, seen flying over a field it disappeared along this large dip which snaked its way to the ridge of the hill we were heading to. As we approached the top we noticed a dark Harrier quatering a nearby field, it was a male Montagu's Harrier but this was a dark morph bird and very dark bird. I managed to grab a few distant record shots just to show the plumage, it was completely dark underneath not showing the characteristic barring or indeed show the upperwing black band.
This was exciting to see such a dark bird, my Dad and I had previously seen a dark morph bird in the UK, but as it moved over the ridge and we eased forward to gain more views it vanished! no doubt sitting tight in a field nearby we eagerly awaited it's re-emergence but it was not to be. A great finish to another bird filled day.
DAY 5 - 13th April.
"Magacela"
We ventured further afield to somewhere different this time in search of Wheatear's!
We hadn't seen Black-eared or Black Wheatear's on previous trips and so were eager to find these 2 wanted species. As we approached our journey's end we could see the historical Magacela Castle looming ahead. As we slowly drove up the approach road around the sloped hill we were immediately graced with a stunning male Black-eared Wheatear perched up on a rock close to the car! Everyone was in awe of this absolute beauty, thank the birding gods it posed for a couple of pictures, then we saw the female bird follow in its shadow as they moved from rock to rock.
Fantastic start and for sure the bird of the day for me and we had only just got going!
And then before we had even started the car up again, looking left......Black Wheatear!
2 target species both conquered straight away, sadly the Black Wheatear did not show anymore, on the slopes we added Blue Rock Thrush, Subalpine Warbler and Rock Bunting before heading through the quaint little streets to the castle top.
The views from the top were stunning, and with great weather we could see for miles.
Around the top plateau there were a few butterflies present, and my Dad and I watched Wall and Swallowtail before catching sight of this stunner, Scarce Swallowtail and what a beauty of a new species to see. Luckily once we had met up with Sarah and Neil again, it had remained in the same area for them to gaze upon it.
Chough, Jackdaw, Swifts and Crag Martins filled the skies, I set about trying for some flight shots whilst we stopped for a welcomed coffee and lunch.
I could not pick out any Pallid Swifts among the many Common, the Crag Martins were swooping down over the road collecting insects, and giving me a challenge just to keep up with them in the camera's viewfinder.
I was ambling around on my own watching Subalpines and trying to grab a photo as they moved around the scrub collecting nesting material and food, unbeknown to me I had snapped off a couple of shots of a warbler and not even thought about it as I chased after a butterfly, I later realised when looking that I had taken a photo of a Spectacled Warbler!! That will teach me for not paying attention, but at least I got a shot.
The Crag finally slowed themselves for a few shots, Sarah and I watched them moving in and out of their nesting sites hidden in the rock face. It was now onto the next birding site, the town of Merida and a walk along the old Roman bridge.
"Merida Bridge"
This old Roman bridge is the longest surviving from ancient times, great to be able to walk along it and bird from it!
As we walked towards the waters edge just down from the old Roman bridge, we set off a Common Sandpiper, overhead were passing Gull billed Terns, Cattle Egrets to name just a couple. We walked up the steps and onto the old Roman bridge, it wasn't long before we were staring down at a Purple Swamphen feeding in the reedbed directly below us!
Cetti's Warblers were teasing us with their calls but never giving themselves up except for the briefest of moments. There were large colonies of Egrets around the waters edge and scanning through with the scope showed a couple of Night Heron hidden away, also a couple of Glossy Ibis made appearances.
The underside of the bridge had Swallows busily moving back and forth returning to their nests, and a favourite of mine, Alpine Swifts. I stood for ages watching them return and swoop around the bridge, not easy trying to get a photo mind you, and with the darkening skies I knew I was on a loser!
Whilst on the bridge the rain had been spitting but never really getting going, and the skies darkened, but as we left the bridge for the car the skies once again brightened...sod's law! But we were planning on returning to Trujillo and so set off.
We had only just left the outskirts of Merida when Neil stopped the car next to a little flooded enclosure which held a stunningly coloured Glossy Ibis, feeding the otherside of a fence right next to us!
Trujillo
Once back in Trujillo we stopped at the Bull Ring for the Lesser Kestrel colony before heading into the Plaza for dinner. And in the centre it was then that I connected with a Black Redstart, gaining that species after missing the last one.
DAY 6 - 14th April.
Monfrague
This is a great place to bird and just admire. There is never a shortage of wildlife to look for. Today our main target bird was Spanish Imperial Eagle, but we knew we would see an abundance of species. We headed straight for the Imperial site, where we found one of the adults just viewable sitting on the nest. Whilst waiting for some flight activity from the eagles we had plenty to look at besides, Subalpines and Rock Buntings, Red rumped Swallows, a pair of Black Storks flew over, but a big dip was missing out on a Bonnelli's Eagle that had flown through just 5 minutes before we arrived!!
The Griffons were attending their young at the nests.
We watched a pair of Long tailed Tits constructing a nest, they would bring in materials and carefully place it before sitting inside the nest to make sure it was comfy and precise.
Then I spotted another adult Spanish Imperial Eagle fly in over the ridge, all eyes were now on this majestic bird.
As it passed the cliff face with the Griffon nests, the vultures all paid attention to what the eagle was doing! only the other week Neil had emailed a photo of a Spanish Imperial Eagle flying off with a young Griffon taken from a nest!
The Imperial made a flyby over our heads before departing over the hill, and with coffee finished we moved further around the Monfrague area aiming for some woodland which may turn up something different.
Watching a small flock of Serin and Long tailed Tit, I hoped to perhaps pick out a Crested Tit but to no avail. We heard and had glimpses of an elusive Firecrest, and I caught a glimpse of a female Cirl Bunting but no one else was able to get on it before it vanished into woodland.
A rustling in the bushes below us turned out to be 3 Red Deer which casually strolled out and continued feeding totally unconcerned by our presence.
Having moved to more scrubby area for warblers, it wasn't long after leaving the car that we heard Sardinian and Dartford Warbler. Sarah and my Dad had moved on ahead of Neil and I and came back to tell us of a Black eared Wheatear across the road, Neil had seen the bird previously but Sarah had let it out of the bag before we got there! it was going to be a surpirse, especially if we hadn't of connected with them previously at Magacela.
The Black eared looked just as stunning seeing them again. The Subalpine's were flitting around but the Dartford warbler was being a lot more elusive until back at the car as we were about to move off one flew up onto a tree guard for us all to see before once again vanishing. Result.
After stopping for some cheese at the Monfrague Centre, we headed back to the main viewpoint where the vultures would be returning for their roost as the light started to fade.
Maybe because it was so cold and dull, but the vulture numbers seemed less than usual, although it is always a awesome place to watch from.
Moving around and watching various stuff, I refrained from taking many photos as the light was just to low for flight images of the vultures passing by, Sarah and I were then joined by a beautiful Rock Bunting which sat on the railing between the two of us just feet away!
What an absolute joy, I had to grab some images, and with the camera settings tweaked to fit the lighting I clicked away, and the bird seemed to just pose for the fun of it.
And no sooner had the Rock Bunting flown that a nearby Subalpine Warbler flew in to call and take its turn to be photographed, by now I was buzzing with joy.
The Rock Bunting duly arrived back again, only to be pursued by another Rock Bunting, now I realised that the reason it had stayed so close was to prevent another rival from getting at it, but it seemed they weren't bothered by our being there anymore and sat up for a few more photos.
An absolute corker of a male Black Redstart showed up and posed just below me, what a stunner it was. I waited for a Blue Rock Thrush to put in another show but the light was fading below and I didn't see it again. I headed back to the car and watched Red rumped Swallows skim the road for insects, but when called to get a photo of a pair of Red rumped' sitting in a roadside tree my luck had just run out as they departed just as I arrived. Still after the Black Redstart and very confiding Rock Buntings I couldn't of been happier, what a joy it is to be at Monfrague.
DAY 7 - 15th April
Arrocampo
As I knew from previous visits here, you have to keep your eyes open and scanning at all times, anything can and does fly past or appear. So when a Little Bittern took to the air above the reeds it was a quick call to make sure everyone got onto it. On this occasion it landed to the side of the hide where my Dad and I were scanning from and we picked it out as it hunted for small fish along the reed edge before flying towards us and disappearing in the nearby reedbed, a new and most welcome species for my Dad.
The Bluethroat had by now returned and was showing very well to the side of the hide, this turned out to be a younger red throated race. A contender for Bird of the Day.
Purple Herons were very active around the nests, and the Swamphens very vocal.
The previous year I had photographed a Great White Egret from near enough the same spot as I was now watching and photographing another.
The Gull Billed Terns had been passing back and forth over the water some distance away but all attention was now drawn to the side of the hide where a group of Gull Billed Terns were feeding on insects in the meadow. What a great sight watching these swooping down and picking up beetles etc.
And as if to repeat itself once again, a pair of Black winged Stilts flew into the same pool that we had watched them the previous year, this time though they had company in the form of a Ruff which had latched onto them and moved whenever they did so.
And as the first Great White Egret departed it's space was immediately occupied by another bird, it was never quiet, always something to look at.
The hide at the causeway had a lot of warblers present, with Savi's and Reed and Chiffchaff, Willow and Subalpine all showing well. There was too much heat haze to see if any Squacco were present further afield.
Our time at Arrocampo came to an end and we returned the keys before heading back to the steppes on the way home. The rain finally caught up with us as we headed across the steppes, and we talked about birds missed and best birds seen. None of us could believe it when a Great Spotted Cuckoo was spotted at the side of the road directly infront of the car, and as we watched that fly away another was spotted heading off after it!
The rain was now keeping us inside the car, but we still scanned the fields and Neil set up the tripod under the cover of the boot door, we had been watching Bustards nearby and heard Pin tailed Sandgrouse calling, sure enough we watched a few fly over. Whilst keeping an eye on the distant Bustard field a group of 4 Sandgrouse were seen flying in, surprisingly 2 of them were Black Bellied Sandgrouse!! despite the weather we had now seen 2 of the species that had eluded us all week. With no let up in the weather we headed back, not before seeing Spanish Imperial Eagle, Black Stork and a couple of Stone Curlews....birding extreme....birding Extremadura.
And so our holiday had come to an end, we were travelling home the next day and despite our hopefulness the weather was absolutely awful, it rained so much and so hard it was difficult to pick out anything. Once again we have Neil to thank for such an enjoyable time in Extremadura, we had all seen 145 species with my Dad connecting with the most lifers, every day brought something wonderful and memorable. I knew I would miss being woken up by the neighbours cockerel, being greeted by Kelly and the sound of Hoopoe as you stepped out into the garden. I can't wait to return.
Thank you Neil for a wonderful time.
